As we close 2023, I would like to share with you the one place in Manila which D and I frequented this year – the oldest Chinatown in the world: Binondo. It was established in 1594 during the Philippine Spanish era. Whenever I hear Binondo, I would automatically think of food. This is where family, friends and I would go to for a weekend dimsum breakfast. But we have to time our visit and be sure to arrive there on an early Saturday or Sunday morning because I always found parking to be quite tricky in Binondo. So much as I would like to do a proper food tour in Binondo, my trips would always be short and sweet. Fortunately, it’s only a few kilometers away from our city apartment in Makati, so it only takes less than an hour’s drive on weekend mornings.
Early this year, we booked our parents to an overnight stay in Binondo so they could explore the place. Mom said that though it’s changed quite a lot, it always elicited nostalgic memories. On a whim, she caught up with a friend who owns a store near their hotel, and she and dad shopped as they walked around town. One of the shops she consistently goes to when in Binondo is Eng Bee Tin. It is renowned for its Chinese delicacies like the hopia (a pastry with fillings like mung bean or yam) and tikoy (a glutinous rice cake which is a popular gift during Chinese New Year).
We had breakfast at the 1919 Grand Cafe at Juan Luna Street. It happened to be a stone’s throw away from their hotel, and we found later on that it was quite popular on social media. We had the typical Filipino breakfast, and what I liked most about the restaurant other than its food is the cozy and warm ambience. It’s been a long time since my family went to Manila together for a meal, and I think that would be the start of more Manila food adventures to come.
Speaking of food adventures, our next visit to Binondo brought us to New Po Heng Lumpia House, a hole in the wall that is known for its fresh lumpia (spring roll). It was located in an alley, and I liked the wall art painted next to the restaurant’s handful of chairs.
We got a fresh lumpia for 100 pesos (around USD $1.80) which D and I shared. The fresh lumpia comes with sweet sauce, but since it already has a mixture of sweet and savory ingredients, we skipped the sauce and enjoyed it as it was. It was a yummy and filling snack, and we were pumped to walk on to our main destination for that trip: the Chinatown Museum.
En route to the Chinatown Museum was the Minor Basilica and National Shrine of Saint Lorenzo Ruiz, also known as the Binondo Church. It is a Dominican church built in 1596. Saint Lorenz Ruiz, the first Filipino saint, served as an altar boy in this church before he ventured to Japan where he became a martyr in 1637.
Minor Basilica and National Shrine of Saint Lorenzo Ruiz
Finally we got to the Chinatown Museum. There were only a few visitors like us when we got there, and whilst there was no guided tour, the signages provided thorough information about the gallery exhibits. It provided the history of Binondo and the role it played in the country’s commerce, being connected to the Pasig River, Manila Bay and Intramuros. It showed the different Binondo landmarks and streets through its interactive map, the history and statues of the Binondo Church, and showcased the lifestyle during the Spanish era. The exhibits likewise showed how Binondo evolved through the years.
We thoroughly enjoyed our trip to the Chinatown Museum and recommend it if you are in the area. The Chinatown Museum is located at the 4th floor of the Lucky Chinatown Mall at Reina Regente Street, Binondo.
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